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In Paris, the Fall/Winter 2026 fashion week once again highlighted a generation of designers who are rethinking the boundaries of contemporary fashion. The shows revealed bold proposals, where creative exploration, attention to materials, and a more conscious approach to design are shaping new perspectives for clothing.
This season, we are supporting six designers with unique universes Victor Weinsanto, Zomer, Maitrepierre, Gauchere, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Vaillant Studio each of whom, in their own way, is reinventing circularity, craftsmanship, and the expression of contemporary femininity.
For her Fall/Winter 2026 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen reimagines the fashion show format. Rather than following a traditional runway, her new sartorial codes are revealed through choreography.
Titled Practice, the collection asserts that true mastery lies in the creative process rather than the final product. At the heart of this season, the fourth chapter of her collaboration with The North Face reflects this shift toward a more functional outerwear wardrobe. Iconic pieces from the brand technical jackets and upcycled archive bags are reinterpreted with a romantic touch, adorned with floral embroidery and delicate finishes that soften their technical look. Cecilie emphasizes that clothing is meant to be worn and experienced: “Practice is not preparation for something greater. Practice is the work itself.”
© UMBERTO FRATINI
The designer explores the concept of fullness and emptiness in a collection inspired by various female characters navigating their daily lives. Her signature graphic yet delicate tailoring runs throughout the collection. It is crafted from classic suiting fabrics or from synthetic deadstock leathers from Nona Source, which are more sustainable and accessible than traditional leather while still providing the desired shine.
Dominated by mineral shades, anthracite grays, and earthy browns, the collection exudes a clear, urban strength. Fullness is expressed through oversized wool coats and biker jackets paired with wide, pleated, or straight trousers, while emptiness appears through clever fabric play. Except for a few silhouettes made from speckled burgundy Nona Source tweed, the collection features no patterns.
© KIRA BUNSE
The Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, titled Crossroads, offers a contemplative perspective on fashion, its codes, and the people who embrace it, moving through the city to bring it to life. At the crossroads of Maitrepierre’s inspirations, it presents itself as a manifesto of the brand’s DNA, nourished by the meeting of opposites: past and future, couture and ready-to-wear, weight and lightness, color and restraint, innovation and archives.
Favoring rubber over pencil, the collection takes a more minimalist approach, focusing on familiar materials and subtle tones. Rooted in everyday life, it is gentle, luminous, and imbued with hope.
True to its commitments, the brand also continues its sustainable approach: 100% of the collection is made from deadstock, waste, or certified materials.
© NONA SOURCE | @ DOMINIQUE MAITRE
Alice Vaillant draws from the past for her autumn collection, blending references to the Russian Ballets and Parisian archetypes of the 1920s in tribute to her hometown. “I wanted to pay homage to Paris” she explains, imagining the encounter between a dancer and a “titi parisien” in a world where dance interacts with the memory of street life.
The show mixes open-knit bodysuits, feathered skirts reminiscent of tutus, embroidered satin coats, and long taffeta skirts trailing behind, while silk slips trimmed with lace are presented in multiple variations.
© CATWALKPICTURES
With After Midnight, Victor Weinsanto delivers a show with a strong, confident character. Inspired by a baroque and sensual aesthetic, the Fall/Winter ’26 collection features dramatic volumes and long, theatrical trains.
The designer’s universe draws from the imagination of Parisian nights, those places where anything becomes possible. Echoing the cabaret Manko, a favorite of the designer, the runway transforms into a hybrid space where fashion, music, and performance intersect.
The tone is set from the very first silhouette, with a structured bodice, sheer elements, and a wrap skirt in chic officewear style.
© VLAD DOBRE
For this new collection, Zomer starts with simple, personal pieces, such as a cardigan or a jacket.
The pieces interact with one another: Russian silk scarves paired with jackets transformed into skirts, color-block sweaters combined with playfully patched garments. Edges remain raw, and jersey dresses fall naturally, blending comfort with thoughtful style.
This season, Zomer turns their digital presence into a physical experience, and with La Watch Party, the audience becomes part of the show, blurring the line between runway and spectator.
© ALEX DOBRE
